THE BEAUTY
OF ZEST
Hailing from Iran and named Loomi,
the black lemon is captivating the
food world.
Why we're rushing
to fall for it.
BY DELPHINE GAUTHERIN
UNDER ITS
WRINKLED,
DARK SKIN, THE
BLACK LEMON
certainly doesn't
have the shine of a
Mediterranean
lemon. Yet, this amusing
citrus fruit enthralls chefs, finding its way into
sophisticated cocktails
and the most chic desserts.
A beloved ingredient in Persian cuisine, particularly
in Iran and Iraq where it traditionally flavors stews,
broths, rice, and marinades with a unique aromatic power,
this citrus fruit, called "loomi," is essentially
a lime that has been blanched in salt water,
then sun-dried until it becomes hard, black, and incredibly
perfumed. An ancestral process that gives it
its color and concentrates its flavors
in a tangy, smoky, and slightly bitter explosion,
far removed from the classic freshness of citrus.
Today, chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi are reinventing it,
grated over white fish, roasted vegetables, or incorporated into sauces to
provide an irresistible umami boost. Roi Hendel, founder of Epices Shira, dedicates a
book to it (see
opposite), where he
attributes a
magical power,
"like shoyu,
parmesan
or nori."
It doesn't replace a classic lemon
but elevates any preparation
(mashed potatoes, deviled eggs, lemonade...)
The influence of black lemon extends beyond savory cuisine.
It infuses sophisticated cocktails,
as at Le Bar Paris, where it's paired with
miso in a tangy, deep syrup.
On the sweet side, it has won over prestigious names:
Pierre Hermé enhances it in macarons, Cédric Grolet plays with its shell
a little goth, while the ice cream makers Kimiko
Kinoshita and Pierre Geronimi create
smoked and spicy sorbets, both surprising
and addictive. For those who would like to
try it, Maison Boteh, the large Iranian grocery store
website, offers it in all its forms. A gem of Persian cuisine that
knocks out our tame recipes, the black lemon
is a bad boy... and that's why we love it!